With Liliana about Malagasy culture and her point of view on Czech people
- Kamila Bonhard
- Nov 21, 2023
- 8 min read
The interview I bring you this time is exceptional in some way. I conducted it with a young woman who, unlike all my previous guests, was born in the Czech Republic. However, her roots extend to the distant lands of Africa, specifically to the largest African island (and the fourth largest island in the world) - Madagascar.
Liliana was born as the daughter of a Czech father and a mother from Madagascar. Her mother received a scholarship at Charles University during a period when Czechoslovakia provided support to students from various countries worldwide. It was there that she met Liliana's father. In her early childhood, Liliana spent some time in Madagascar, and at the age of seven, she moved back to the Czech Republic with her family, where she still lives today.
"Malagasy people have no idea what a comfortable life is like, as we know it in Europe. But maybe because they don't know it, they might actually be happier. It also seems that there, time or rules don't really exist. They have a difficult life, but on the other hand, a peaceful life. They have time for everything and are not as rushed as we are."
How often do you visit Madagascar with your family?
I was there when I was little, in preschool age. We lived in the capital city, Antananarivo, with relatives. I attended school there with my brother, where we quickly learned the local language, Malagasy. However, from the first grade onwards, I attended school here in the Czech Republic, and since we didn't use the language at home, I unfortunately quickly forgot it.
Since I've been living in the Czech Republic, I have visited Madagascar twice, most recently last year when I went there with my whole family. During holidays, we usually visit family in France. Traveling to Africa is quite financially demanding. And it's not just about the flight itself. When someone goes there, I assume they have saved up quite a bit. It may seem tricky, but when you go there as a tourist, you can't do without a guide, and that costs money.
For example, if you want to visit the desert, you need your African guide with you, who arranges everything and ensures your safety. It's hard to shop at the market on your own because you can't communicate, so the guide also takes care of your shopping. Although you can negotiate in French, it's tricky because when the locals see that you're white, they automatically treat you as rich foreigners. That means they increase the price and practically rip you off. There is significant corruption there.
What do you like and dislike the most about Madagascar?
I like the hospitality there, something rarely seen in the Czech Republic. They have a very strong sense of family unity. When we visited relatives, they prepared meat for us, a duck. And they do it for visitors even though it's very expensive for them. They are also a very cheerful nation.
I generally love their culture and African food. One of the advantages of living in Madagascar is that all their food is organic. Vegetables, fruits, meat, fish. There are no big food processing factories; everything is fresh. I really like that. (Note: tips on Liliana's favorite foods from Madagascar can be found at the end of the article.)
What I dislike the most is corruption. They have a very tough life there. They don't have basic socio-economic systems that we are used to here in Europe, such as garbage collection. There is no garbage collection service, and there is a lot of dirt everywhere. Due to poor conditions, they are used to charging large amounts for everything, especially from tourists. Poverty is very evident there; they can rarely afford meat. Despite being a beautiful island full of stunning nature, only a few locals can afford to travel. They have no idea what a comfortable life is like, as we know it in Europe. But maybe because they don't know it, they might actually be happier. It also seems that there, time or rules don't really exist. They have a difficult life, but on the other hand, a peaceful life. They have time for everything and are not as rushed as we are.
As an example of what African corrupt mentality can look like, let me tell you a story that happened to me last year when we were in Madagascar. On one hand, it might be an amusing story, but on the other hand, it actually spoiled my entire vacation.
In the Czech Republic, there is a community of people from Madagascar, and during the COVID pandemic, we gathered together in Madagascar. One of our friends, who spoke Malagasy and Czech, hosted us. The whole group then went to the Tsingy National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and I believe everyone should see it because it's a truly beautiful natural phenomenon that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.
We traveled in a group of about five cars. My dad wanted to save money, so he rented a cheaper car with a driver we didn't know. Now, I would like to say to anyone who wants to save money in Africa, it's a suicide mission.
The car windows couldn't be closed, so when we drove through the desert, the stirred-up sand flew inside. "Fortunately", it was the pandemic, and we all had masks, so we didn't suffocate. At one point, the rented jeep broke down. And in the African desert, it's definitely not like in Europe, where you can call a tow truck anywhere. In the end, we somehow made it to where the other cars from our group were parked. To get from there, we had to split up. My mom and brother left in a police car, which means an armored car with two-meter-tall black guys with rifles, so they had protection and nothing to fear. And my dad left with a friend, while I stayed alone.
Only when they left did I realize that I had no money left. In Africa, money can be a lifesaver. I was left there with a car in which a few Germans were traveling. However, their driver wanted me to pay for the trip, and I had no way to do that. He wanted to leave me there. That could have been a tough situation for me, staying in the desert at night without water. There are poachers there who hunt zebus (African cows), among other dangers. I'm still convinced that if he had left me there, I might not have survived. Cars don't pass by on such desert roads every moment, so the chances of rescue in the form of a passing car were not very high.
In the end, I managed to persuade the German fellow travelers to pay for me. If they hadn't done it, the driver would have left me there. To him, I was a rich white European who had to pay. If you don't pay, tough luck. The Germans found my situation a bit funny and laughed, but it wasn't very funny for me.
So, I took the ride with them to their hotel, which was a beautiful resort in the middle of the desert. However, there was no internet, and not even running water. Besides personal belongings, I brought about 10 bottles of drinking water with me – here, a person is truly outside civilization, so we had to bring enough water for the entire trip. And, as I mentioned, Africans like to be bribed. The driver knew that the water in the car was mine, but when I came for it, he didn't give it to me. He only returned my hat and even started drinking my water right in front of me. I'm used to necessary bribes and similar behavior of guides; I know that's how it goes there, but this was particularly nasty treatment.
I was lucky that the hotel was luxurious, so they let me order a drink even though I didn't have the money to pay immediately. In the morning, my parents found me at the hotel, paid my bill, and said how lucky I was. They had spent the night in some village crammed with other people in terrible conditions and envied me the luxury of the hotel. Well, I was still shaken from the experience of the previous day and the danger I found myself in.
Exactly because of these experiences, I do not recommend to people to travel on their own but rather to hire a good guide who, although it will cost money, will take care of you.
What makes Madagascar different from other African countries?
The people of Madagascar are very peaceful, and unlike many African nations, there have been no recent wars or conflicts there.
Last month, I did an interview on the blog with a girl from Norway, and she has a question for you: When traveling to Madagascar, is there anything I should keep in mind to avoid offending the local people and to show them respect?
People at markets expect bargaining. At the same time, it's necessary to bribe people everywhere. If you don't want to pay them, they will be offended, and as seen from the story I told, it can backfire.
What do you like and dislike the most about the Czech Republic?
In the Czech Republic, I especially like the food. I am a grateful eater. I love dishes like Svíčková (marinated beef with cream sauce), Bramboráky (potato pancakes), typical Czech foods. Duck with dumplings is my favorite childhood dish. And the bread. Czech bread is great.
I don't like the typical Czech tendency to complain about everything. And honestly, I also don't like that Czechs are xenophobic. Many people claim it's not true, but unfortunately, it is. It might be historically determined. I think most foreigners would tell you the same.
What's your personal experience with it?
Unfortunately, I have a lot of experience with it. People often think I'm a gypsy, and honestly, it's quite unpleasant for me. Even after so many years of living here, I encounter it daily. People are capable of telling me to my face that I look like that, which is rude. Yes, people have the freedom to say what they want, but this is racist behavior. In stores, I have problems with security guards. Nowhere else in Europe have I encountered this to such an extent. So, that's definitely something that bothers me the most.
For Africans, on the other hand, I look white, European. This can be a disadvantage because they automatically think I'm rich and can afford to pay more. On the other hand, it's a plus. I probably wouldn't have a problem finding a job or a husband there.
Is there something you miss from Madagascar in the Czech Republic?
Food and the cheerful nature. I certainly don't miss poverty here. One of the advantages of living in Europe is that it's clean, we have school mostly for free, and healthcare is also free. Europe is good for living in these aspects.
Do you think you will stay in the Czech Republic?
I would like to move to France in the future because I have relatives from Madagascar there, and it's easier for me to find a job there. I also like the local culture. I would visit the Czech Republic for vacation.
Thank you very much Liliana for the interesting interview! It was an honor to hear your story and unique perspective on Czech and African culture.
Below, you will find tips on Liliana's favorite dishes from Madagascar:
Kimo (minced meat with potatoes, rice, and tomatoes in a curry-style): One of the traditional Malagasy dishes that is simple both in terms of ingredients (if you substitute any special spices with those available) and preparation. The exact recipe for preparing this dish will be available soon on this blog.
Mofo gasy (pronounced muf gas) - "rice bread"
A typical street breakfast, usually served with coffee. Rice is a staple food for the people of Madagascar, brought from Southeast Asia, where they also have their roots. It's no wonder that one of the basic dishes is made from rice.
Koba - Peanut sweet treat
The main ingredients are peanuts, rice flour, and cane sugar. The mixture is wrapped in banana leaves and cooked. I would love to taste this delicious treat as well.
What would you like to try the most?
Places and activities recommended by Liliana when visiting Madagascar:
The aforementioned Tsingy National Park
Mentioned resort: Relais Du Kirindy
The Avenue of the Baobabs - a very photogenic spot, especially at sunset (see the image above)
White beaches, for example: Foulpointe
Boat trip where you can spot various marine animals
Visit to reserves where you can see rare animals, such as the fossa, the largest carnivore on the island, which is not found anywhere else in the world
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